Safe in Ely

We're pleasantly surprised to find our car in situ and undamaged this morning as we beat a hasty retreat from the low-life region of Peterborough. As a point of interest, Jo has discovered that Henry VIII's first wife, Katherine of Aragon, is buried in the Peterborough Cathedral, so the place must have some redeeming features.

The plan for today was to spend some time in the Norfolk Broads, those fascinating waterways that weave through the Norfolk countryside, but as our base for this evening has moved further south to Ely, travelling to the Broads is off the agenda and a day in Ely itself is now on the agenda. 

We find a park in Ely without having to pay, which is a good start to the day. Jo wants to visit the Ely Cathedral, known as the 'Ship of the Fens' because it can be seen for miles around in this flat fenland. We walk around the cathedral gardens which have an interesting Physick (the archaic spelling used) Garden with a border of English Lavender. The bed is sectioned and each section has a description of what medicinal use the plants served (some of them weird and wonderful!). Bumble bees are fossicking in the Lavender, droning around like Lancaster bombers.

Physick Garden at Ely Cathedral

The Norman cathedral is listed as one of the 'Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages' and its construction took around 300 years to complete. It is built of Barnack limestone, the cathedral web site tells me that the monks of Ely paid 8000 eels per year for the stone! Was that 8000 per year for 300 years? That would add up to 2,400,000 eels! I know eels were plentiful in the waters around Ely but still, that's a lot of eels.

Ely Cathedral (scaffolding on front tower so just a side view here).

Ely Cathedral is huge, the nave is reputed to be as long as Ely High Street and has a wonderful painted ceiling and a spectacular lantern above the crossing. 

The nave, Ely Cathedral

Painted ceiling in the nave of Ely Cathedral

The lantern above the crossing in Ely Cathedral

My favourite area of the cathedral is the Lady Chapel, built between 1322 and 1349, it has the most exquisite plasterwork with seating niches around the walls and leaded windows that pour light into the space below. The acoustics are excellent and we are treated to a solo performance from a young woman who is part of the very large choir currently rehearsing for a performance to be held in the cathedral tonight, themselves adding enormously to the enjoyment of our visit.

The Lady Chapel at Ely Cathedral

The Lady Chapel at Ely Cathedral

A visiting American choir rehearsing at Ely Cathedral

We wander towards the River Great Ouse where narrowboats line the bank. Along the path we spy a sign for a river cruise on the Liberty Belle, a narrowboat that would hold about 15 to 20 people. The booking office is another little boat with a window open to the path and a lady with a charming local accent leaning out, all very low-key and just the way I like it. We pay our £16 and Captain Bob welcomes us aboard. There is one couple sitting in the bow seats and Jo and I in the cabin, which has no glass in the windows allowing you to get glare-free photos. Captain Bob, who is quite a character and also has a lovely accent, seems to think four passengers are enough for a trip, fine by me, so he disappears into the wheelhouse and turns on a recorded commentary which is entertaining and informative. I'm sure Captain Bob would have many stories of his own to relate if he didn't have to steer the boat!

There's something delightfully calming about being on the water as we drift past cows resting by the river, Canada Geese bobbing on the water, tall reeds at the river-edge and patches of waterlily. Two graceful white swans appear, people along the bank are picnicking under willow trees and beautifully restored narrowboats are moored along the far bank.

Cows on the riverbank at Ely

Canada Geese and a restored narrowboat on the River Great Ouse

White Swans on the River Great Ouse

Picnickers on the riverbank at Ely

As we come around to return to base we get a glimpse of the cathedral between the trees. 

Ely Cathedral from the River Great Ouse

Our peaceful cruise comes to an end and as we rise to leave the boat, the lady and her husband ask Jo if she'll take their photo with Captain Bob as they are out on their 50^th wedding treat. How nice.

We make our way to Little Downham for the night which turns out to be the polar opposite of the Peterborough experience.